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Do Dehumidifiers Use a Lot of Electricity? (2026 Wattage Data)

Dehumidifiers use 280–800 watts depending on size — comparable to a refrigerator. Full wattage data for every type, efficiency comparison by IEF rating, and 4 ways to reduce power consumption.

HVAC Base TeamUpdated February 5, 202613 min read

No — a dehumidifier uses a moderate amount of electricity, roughly comparable to a refrigerator. A typical 50-pint ENERGY STAR dehumidifier draws 480–550 watts and costs $19–$28 per month to run at the national average rate of $0.17/kWh. That's about 3–5% of the average U.S. household's monthly electric bill.

To put it in context: a dehumidifier uses far less electricity than a central air conditioner (2,000–5,000W), about the same as a refrigerator (100–400W running 24/7), and significantly more than a ceiling fan (10–75W). Here's a complete breakdown of how much power different dehumidifiers actually draw and how to minimize your energy use.

Dehumidifier Wattage by Type

Every dehumidifier has a rated wattage — the maximum power it draws when the compressor and fan are both running. Here's the full range:

*Assumes 10 hours/day operation for portables, 24 hours for Peltier units. **Whole-house units run fewer hours/day (4–7 hrs) due to higher capacity and duct-integrated airflow.

Good to Know

The wattage on the spec sheet is the maximum draw. Actual consumption varies because the compressor cycles on and off. A 550W dehumidifier that runs 10 hours but cycles the compressor for only 7 of those hours actually consumes about 3.85 kWh, not 5.5 kWh.

How Dehumidifier Energy Compares to Other Appliances

Context matters. Here's how a 50-pint dehumidifier (500W, 10 hrs/day) stacks up against other household electricity consumers:

*At $0.17/kWh national average.

A 50-pint dehumidifier adds roughly $25/month to your bill — less than a clothes dryer, less than 20% of what a central AC costs, and comparable to running your refrigerator. For the mold prevention, comfort improvement, and potential AC energy savings a dehumidifier provides, that's a reasonable investment.

Understanding IEF: The Efficiency Metric

Since 2019, the DOE requires all dehumidifiers to report their Integrated Energy Factor (IEF), measured in liters of water removed per kilowatt-hour consumed (L/kWh). A higher IEF means the unit removes more moisture for every unit of electricity it uses.

IEF includes both active dehumidification and standby power consumption, giving a more realistic picture of total energy use than watts alone.

*Estimated for a 50-pint unit removing similar daily moisture at $0.17/kWh.

Pro Tip

An IEF of 2.5 vs 1.5 doesn't sound like much, but over a 6-month season it means approximately $60–$90 in electricity savings. Over the unit's 7–10 year lifespan, that's $420–$900 — more than the purchase price of many models.

2026 ENERGY STAR IEF Minimums

To qualify for ENERGY STAR certification, dehumidifiers must meet these minimum IEF thresholds:

What Determines How Much Electricity Your Dehumidifier Uses?

Factor 1: Compressor Runtime (Most Important)

Your dehumidifier doesn't draw its rated wattage 24 hours a day. The compressor cycles on and off based on the humidistat. In a properly sized and sealed space, the compressor may only run 40–70% of the time the unit is "on." The fan draws only 30–80W when running alone during standby mode.

Real-world power consumption = Rated watts × compressor runtime fraction.

For a 500W unit with 60% compressor runtime over 10 hours: 500W × 0.6 × 10 hrs = 3.0 kWh/day (vs. the theoretical 5.0 kWh if it ran at full wattage the entire time).

Factor 2: Room Conditions

Higher humidity means the compressor runs more to reach your target — but it also means more moisture per cycle. In very humid conditions (75%+ RH), the unit is extremely efficient per pint removed but runs more total hours. In mildly damp conditions (55% RH), it reaches target quickly and cycles off.

Factor 3: Ambient Temperature

Compressor efficiency peaks between 70–85°F. Below 65°F, defrost cycles kick in, forcing the compressor to stop while ice melts. Each defrost cycle adds 5–15 minutes of downtime where the unit consumes fan energy without removing moisture. In a cool 55°F basement, defrost cycles can increase electricity consumption per pint by 30–50%.

Factor 4: Air Leakage

A sealed room reaches target humidity and allows the compressor to cycle off. A leaky room continuously admits humid outdoor air, forcing the compressor to run almost continuously. Sealing a basement's rim joists, window frames, and duct penetrations can reduce dehumidifier runtime by 20–40%.

Factor 5: Unit Age and Maintenance

A dirty filter restricts airflow and forces the compressor to work harder. Dusty coils reduce heat transfer efficiency. An aging compressor loses capacity. Over its lifespan, a poorly maintained dehumidifier may use 10–25% more electricity than a clean, well-maintained unit for the same moisture removal.

Real-World Electricity Usage Examples

Example 1: New ENERGY STAR 50-Pint in a Sealed Basement

Unit: LG UD501KOG5 (490W, IEF 2.80) Space: 1,200 sq ft finished basement, 55% avg RH in summer Runtime: 8 hours/day (compressor cycling ~65% of time) Actual daily consumption: 490W × 0.65 × 8 hrs = 2.55 kWh/day Monthly cost: 2.55 × 30 × $0.17 = $13.01/month Season (6 months): $78.03

Example 2: Older Non-ENERGY STAR 50-Pint in a Leaky Basement

Unit: Generic brand (580W, IEF 1.55) Space: 1,200 sq ft unfinished basement, 68% avg RH, air leaks at rim joists Runtime: 14 hours/day (compressor cycling ~80% of time due to air infiltration) Actual daily consumption: 580W × 0.80 × 14 hrs = 6.50 kWh/day Monthly cost: 6.50 × 30 × $0.17 = $33.15/month Season (6 months): $198.90

The difference between these two scenarios is $121 per season — more than enough to justify upgrading to an ENERGY STAR unit and sealing air leaks.

Example 3: Whole-House Dehumidifier in Houston

Unit: AprilAire E100 (830W, IEF 2.70) Space: 2,800 sq ft home, humid subtropical climate Runtime: 6 hours/day average (varies by season) Actual daily consumption: 830W × 0.70 × 6 hrs = 3.49 kWh/day Monthly cost: 3.49 × 30 × $0.17 = $17.80/month AC savings from reduced cooling load: ~$25–$40/month Net impact: The dehumidifier effectively saves $7–$22/month

Example 4: Mini Peltier Unit in a Closet

Unit: Pro Breeze PB-02-US (23W) Space: 60 sq ft walk-in closet Runtime: 24 hours/day continuous Daily consumption: 0.023 × 24 = 0.55 kWh/day Monthly cost: 0.55 × 30 × $0.17 = $2.81/month

4 Proven Ways to Reduce Dehumidifier Electricity Use

1. Upgrade to ENERGY STAR (Saves 15–30%)

The efficiency gap between a budget model (IEF 1.5) and a top ENERGY STAR model (IEF 3.0) is substantial. The efficient model removes twice the moisture per kWh, meaning it runs roughly half as long for the same result. Annual savings: $60–$120.

2. Seal Air Leaks (Saves 20–40%)

Every cubic foot of humid outdoor air that infiltrates your space adds to the moisture load. The biggest air leak culprits in basements are rim joists (the wood band between the foundation and first floor), old windows, and duct penetrations. Sealing these with spray foam and caulk can reduce dehumidifier runtime by 20–40%. Cost to seal: $50–$200 in materials for a DIY job.

3. Set Humidistat to 50%, Not Lower (Saves 15–25%)

Targeting 40% instead of 50% forces the compressor to run significantly more hours. Each 5% reduction in target adds approximately 15–25% more runtime. The EPA says 50% is the ceiling for health — anything below that is over-drying and wasting electricity.

4. Size Up (Counterintuitive but Real)

A 50-pint unit in a 30-pint space reaches target humidity quickly and cycles off. A 30-pint unit in the same space runs continuously. Despite the larger unit's higher wattage, its total daily kWh is often lower because it runs far fewer hours. Oversizing by one class (e.g., 50-pint where 35 is sufficient) typically saves 10–20% on electricity.

Key Takeaway
  • A typical 50-pint dehumidifier uses 480–550 watts and costs $19–$28/month — about 3–5% of the average electric bill
  • Dehumidifiers use less electricity than central AC, about the same as a refrigerator over 24 hours, and far less than a space heater
  • IEF (Integrated Energy Factor) is the key efficiency metric — look for 2.5+ L/kWh for portable models
  • The biggest electricity savers: upgrading to ENERGY STAR (15–30% savings), sealing air leaks (20–40% savings), and setting the humidistat to 50% instead of 40% (15–25% savings)
  • Whole-house dehumidifiers can have a net-positive energy impact by reducing AC runtime in humid climates

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