Yes — running a dehumidifier and air conditioner simultaneously makes sense when your AC alone can't keep indoor humidity below 55%. This is common in humid climates (Southeast U.S., Gulf Coast), with oversized AC systems, or in homes with persistent moisture issues. In these cases, the dehumidifier handles moisture while the AC handles temperature, and the combination often uses less total energy than forcing the AC to do both jobs.
However, if your AC already maintains humidity at 50–55% without struggle, adding a dehumidifier just adds electricity cost with no benefit. Here's how to know which situation applies to you and how to optimize both systems working together.
When Running Both Makes Sense
Scenario 1: Humid Climate (Southeast U.S., Gulf Coast)
In states like Florida, Louisiana, Georgia, Texas Gulf Coast, and the Carolinas, outdoor humidity routinely exceeds 80% in summer. Even a well-designed AC system may struggle to remove enough moisture while cooling. If your indoor humidity stays above 55% with the AC running, a dehumidifier is the solution.
Scenario 2: Oversized Air Conditioner
An oversized AC cools the house quickly but doesn't run long enough to dehumidify effectively. It "short-cycles" — turning on, cooling rapidly, then shutting off before the evaporator coil has time to remove much moisture. Symptoms: the house reaches temperature but feels clammy. A dehumidifier compensates for the AC's short runtime.
Scenario 3: AC Fan Set to "ON" Instead of "AUTO"
When the fan runs continuously ("ON" setting), moisture collected on the evaporator coils re-evaporates into the air between cooling cycles. This defeats the AC's dehumidification. Solution: set fan to "AUTO" and add a dehumidifier if humidity remains high.
Scenario 4: Basement or Crawl Space Issues
Basements stay cooler than the rest of the house, so the AC rarely runs long enough to dehumidify them. Crawl space moisture migrates into the home. In these cases, a dedicated basement dehumidifier (or whole-house unit) handles moisture independently of the AC.
Scenario 5: You Want to Raise the Thermostat
With humidity at 48% instead of 58%, 76°F feels as comfortable as 74°F did at higher humidity. Running a dehumidifier lets you set the thermostat 2–4°F higher, reducing AC runtime. The dehumidifier costs less to run than the extra AC cooling would.
The simple test: run your AC normally for a few hours on a humid day, then check humidity with a hygrometer (not the AC's display). If it reads 55% or below, your AC is handling dehumidification — no extra dehumidifier needed. If it's above 55%, add a dehumidifier.
When Running Both Wastes Energy
Scenario: AC Already Maintains 50% RH
If your air conditioner keeps indoor humidity at 48–52% without effort, adding a dehumidifier just burns extra electricity with no comfort improvement. The dehumidifier fights to lower humidity that's already optimal, running more hours than necessary.
Scenario: Dry Climate
In Arizona, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, and other low-humidity regions, indoor humidity is often below 40% even in summer. A dehumidifier would be pointless — and actually harmful to comfort and health.
Scenario: Fan Already on AUTO, AC Sized Correctly
A properly sized AC with the fan in AUTO mode removes significant moisture during normal operation. In moderate-humidity climates (Mid-Atlantic, Midwest), this is usually sufficient without supplementation.
The Energy Math: Does Running Both Save Money?
The key question: is it cheaper to run AC harder (lower thermostat) or to run AC + dehumidifier at a higher thermostat?
*Estimates based on 3,500W central AC at $0.17/kWh, 500W dehumidifier running 10 hrs.
In humid climates, the "AC + dehumidifier with higher thermostat" strategy often costs the same or less than over-cooling with AC alone. The dehumidifier uses 500W; each degree of cooling uses roughly 3% of AC energy — so raising the thermostat 3–4°F saves 9–12% of a 3,500W load (315–420W saved), which equals or exceeds the dehumidifier's consumption.
How to Set Up AC and Dehumidifier Together
Step 1: Set AC Fan to AUTO
This is critical. With the fan in AUTO mode, it stops running between cooling cycles, allowing moisture on the evaporator coils to drain rather than re-evaporate. This maximizes your AC's built-in dehumidification.
Step 2: Set AC Temperature for Comfort (Not Humidity)
Choose a thermostat setting based on the temperature you want — don't lower it to force more dehumidification. If you're comfortable at 76°F in dry air, set it to 76°F and let the dehumidifier handle moisture.
Step 3: Set Dehumidifier to 48–50% RH
This target provides comfort without over-drying. The dehumidifier will run when humidity exceeds 50% and cycle off when target is reached. It operates independently of the AC's cycling.
Step 4: Position for Coverage
Portable dehumidifier: place centrally or near the main return vent so treated air mixes throughout the space. Whole-house dehumidifier: connect to HVAC ductwork so it treats all circulating air.
Step 5: Verify Combined Performance
After a few days, check conditions:
- Temperature at your target? (AC doing its job)
- Humidity at 48–52%? (Dehumidifier doing its job)
- No short-cycling or constant running? (Both sized correctly)
Whole-House Dehumidifier + AC Integration
For the most seamless operation, a whole-house dehumidifier ducted into your HVAC system is ideal:
Shared ductwork: The dehumidifier draws air from the return duct and delivers dry air to the supply duct, using your existing duct system for whole-home coverage.
Coordinated control: Advanced setups use a thermostat that manages both temperature and humidity. When humidity rises, it runs the dehumidifier; when temperature rises, it runs the AC. Some systems can run both simultaneously during extreme conditions.
Reduced AC load: By handling all dehumidification, the whole-house unit allows the AC to focus solely on sensible cooling. This often improves AC efficiency and extends its lifespan.
Real-World Examples
Example 1: Jacksonville, FL — Humid Climate
Before: AC set to 72°F, running 14 hours/day. Indoor humidity 58–62% despite constant cooling. House feels clammy. Monthly AC bill: $185. After: Added 70-pint dehumidifier in main living area. Raised thermostat to 76°F. Dehumidifier maintains 48% RH. AC runs 10 hours/day. Result: House feels comfortable at 76°F. Monthly costs: AC $145 + dehumidifier $25 = $170. Net savings: $15/month plus significantly improved comfort.
Example 2: Oversized AC in Charlotte, NC
Before: 5-ton AC in 2,200 sq ft home (oversized). AC short-cycles every 8–10 minutes. Temperature reaches 73°F but humidity stays 60%. After: Added whole-house AprilAire dehumidifier. AC still short-cycles, but dehumidifier runs independently and maintains 50% RH. Result: Home finally feels comfortable. No expensive AC replacement needed. Eventual plan: right-size AC at replacement time.
Example 3: Basement Moisture in Chicago, IL
Before: Main floor AC keeps humidity at 52% — fine. But basement reads 68% RH and smells musty. After: Added 50-pint basement dehumidifier set to 50%. Runs independently from AC. Result: Basement humidity dropped to 48%. Musty smell gone. No impact on main-floor AC operation.
- Run a dehumidifier with AC if your indoor humidity stays above 55% despite AC operation — common in humid climates and with oversized AC systems
- The combination often costs the same or less than over-cooling with AC alone, because you can raise the thermostat 2–4°F
- Set AC fan to AUTO (not ON) to maximize AC's natural dehumidification
- Set the dehumidifier to 48–50% RH and let it cycle independently of the AC
- Whole-house dehumidifiers provide the best integration with HVAC systems for seamless humidity control
- Don't run a dehumidifier if your AC already maintains humidity below 55% — it just wastes electricity
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