A furnace leaking water is almost always caused by one of two things: a clogged condensate drain line (the most common cause, affecting 90%+ AFUE condensing furnaces) or a malfunctioning whole-house humidifier. The fix ranges from a simple DIY drain flush ($0) to a professional condensate pump replacement ($150–$400). Here's how to identify which of the 7 possible causes is behind your leak and what to do about it.
First, the most important question: is your furnace a high-efficiency condensing model (90%+ AFUE) or a standard-efficiency non-condensing model (80% AFUE)? This determines the most likely cause. High-efficiency furnaces produce condensate (water) as a normal byproduct — so a leak usually means the drainage system is failing. Standard-efficiency furnaces should NOT produce water, so a leak points to a different issue.
How to Tell If Your Furnace Is Condensing or Non-Condensing
Check the rating plate on your furnace (usually inside the access panel) for the AFUE percentage, or look at the vent pipe — PVC plastic means condensing, metal means non-condensing.
The 7 Causes at a Glance
Cause 1: Clogged Condensate Drain Line (Most Common)
What's happening: Your condensing furnace produces 0.5–1 gallon of acidic condensate per hour of operation. This water drains through a PVC line to a floor drain, utility sink, or condensate pump. Over time, algae, mold, mineral deposits, and debris clog the drain line, and water backs up and overflows.
How to identify it: Look for a small-diameter PVC tube (usually 3/4" or 1") coming from the bottom of your furnace. Follow it to where it terminates. If you see standing water in the drain trap or the line feels full, it's clogged.
DIY fix:
- Turn off your furnace.
- Locate the condensate trap (a U-shaped or P-shaped section of PVC near the furnace).
- Disconnect the trap — have a bucket ready for the backed-up water.
- Flush the trap and line with a mixture of warm water and white vinegar (50/50).
- Use a wet/dry vacuum on the end of the drain line to suck out clogs.
- Reassemble and test by running the furnace.
Prevention: Pour 1/2 cup of white vinegar into the condensate trap every 3 months to prevent algae and mineral buildup.
Safety note: Furnace condensate is mildly acidic (pH 3–4) and may contain trace heavy metals. Wear gloves when handling it, and don't let it contact painted surfaces or concrete for extended periods — it can cause staining and mild etching.
Cause 2: Failed Condensate Pump
What's happening: If your furnace can't drain by gravity to a floor drain (common in basements and crawl spaces), a condensate pump collects the water and pumps it to a drain or outside. When the pump motor fails or the float switch sticks, water overflows the pump reservoir.
How to identify it: Your condensate pump is a small box (usually white or gray) sitting near the furnace base with a small PVC inlet tube and an outlet tube running to a drain. Open the lid — if the reservoir is full and the pump isn't running, the pump has failed. If it's running but not pumping, the impeller or check valve is bad.
DIY fix:
- Check that the pump is plugged in and the outlet isn't frozen.
- Clean the float switch — debris can prevent it from rising to trigger the pump.
- If the motor is dead, replace the entire pump. Condensate pumps cost $30–$80 at home improvement stores and take about 30 minutes to swap.
Pro cost: $150–$400 including the pump and labor.
Cause 3: Cracked Condensate Trap or Line
What's happening: The PVC condensate trap or drain line has developed a crack, loose joint, or has been knocked loose. Condensate leaks from the break point.
How to identify it: Trace the condensate line from the furnace to its termination point. Look for wet spots, drips, or loose fittings at joints. Cracks often occur at the trap itself due to thermal stress over years of hot/cold cycling.
DIY fix: PVC cement and replacement fittings from a hardware store. The entire condensate trap can usually be rebuilt for under $10 in parts. Make sure joints are properly primed and cemented — condensate lines are low-pressure, so a proper PVC joint will hold indefinitely.
Cause 4: Humidifier Malfunction
What's happening: If your furnace has an attached whole-house humidifier (bypass, fan-powered, or steam type), several failure modes can cause water leaks: a stuck solenoid valve that won't close, a cracked water distribution tray, a clogged drain, or a leaking water supply line.
How to identify it: Look at the humidifier unit mounted on the furnace plenum or return duct. Check for water running down the outside of the unit, dripping from the water supply line, or pooling beneath it. If the humidifier is running when the furnace is off, the solenoid valve is stuck open.
DIY fix:
- Turn off the humidifier water supply (there's usually a dedicated saddle valve on a nearby water pipe).
- If the solenoid is stuck, the valve assembly needs replacement ($20–$60 for the part).
- If the water panel/pad is clogged with mineral deposits, replace it ($10–$25).
- Check the drain line for clogs and flush if needed.
Pro cost: $100–$350 depending on the component that needs replacement.
Seasonal tip: Many humidifier leaks occur at the beginning of winter when the unit is turned on for the first time after months of sitting idle. Inspect the humidifier, replace the water panel, and test it before the heating season starts.
Cause 5: Clogged Secondary Heat Exchanger
What's happening: In condensing furnaces, the secondary heat exchanger extracts extra heat from exhaust gases, causing water vapor to condense. Over time, this exchanger can become restricted with scale, soot, or corrosion — especially if the furnace isn't maintained annually. Water then backs up and leaks out of the furnace cabinet.
How to identify it: This is harder to diagnose without professional tools. Signs include: water leaking from inside the furnace cabinet (not the drain line), reduced efficiency, and a furnace that seems to run longer than usual. The secondary heat exchanger is internal and not easily visible.
This is a pro-only repair. A technician will need to inspect and possibly flush or replace the secondary heat exchanger. Cost: $200–$600 for cleaning, $1,500–$3,000+ for replacement.
Cause 6: Improper Vent Pipe Slope
What's happening: Condensing furnace vent pipes (PVC) must slope slightly back toward the furnace so that any condensation inside the pipe drains back into the furnace's condensate system. If the vent pipe was installed level or sloping away from the furnace, condensate pools in the pipe and eventually leaks at joints or backs up into the furnace.
How to identify it: Look at your PVC exhaust vent pipe. It should slope at least 1/4 inch per foot toward the furnace. If it runs level or slopes away from the furnace toward the exterior wall, this could be the problem — especially if you see water dripping from vent pipe joints.
This is typically a pro repair. The vent pipe needs to be re-routed or re-supported with proper hangers. Cost: $150–$400.
Cause 7: AC Evaporator Coil Drainage Issue
What's happening: If your furnace shares an air handler with a central AC system, the AC evaporator coil sits above or beside the furnace. During cooling season (or during shoulder season when both heating and cooling cycles may occur), the evaporator coil produces condensate that drains through its own drain pan and line. A clogged AC condensate drain causes water to overflow and pool around the furnace.
How to identify it: This cause is most likely if you see water leaking in summer or early fall, or if you recently switched from cooling to heating mode. Look for the AC drain pan (usually beneath the evaporator coil, above the furnace). If it's full of water, the AC drain is clogged.
DIY fix: Same approach as cause 1 — flush the AC condensate drain line with vinegar or use a wet/dry vacuum. Also check the drain pan for cracks (common in older metal pans).
When to Call a Professional
Call a technician immediately if:
- You smell rotten eggs (gas leak — leave the house and call your gas company).
- Water has been leaking for an extended period and you can't identify the source.
- You suspect the secondary heat exchanger is failing.
- The leak is coming from inside the furnace cabinet itself.
- You're not comfortable working with PVC, electrical, or water connections.
A typical service call for a furnace leak diagnosis costs $75–$150. Most condensate-related repairs are completed in one visit for under $300 total.
Real-World Examples
Example 1: The Petersons — Clogged Condensate Drain in Chicago, IL The Petersons noticed a puddle of water around their 3-year-old 96% AFUE Carrier furnace in January. The condensate drain line was completely clogged with a combination of algae and mineral buildup. They used a wet/dry vacuum on the drain line and flushed it with vinegar — problem solved in 20 minutes, $0 cost. They now pour vinegar down the drain every 3 months.
Example 2: The Williamses — Failed Condensate Pump in Columbus, OH The Williamses had a Little Giant condensate pump that failed after 6 years (typical lifespan is 3–8 years). The pump motor burned out, causing water to overflow onto the basement floor. An HVAC technician replaced the pump for $275 total. They opted for a model with an audible alarm and auto-shutoff that kills the furnace if the pump fails — preventing future water damage.
Example 3: The Harrises — Humidifier Solenoid Valve in Minneapolis, MN Water was pooling beneath their Aprilaire humidifier at the start of the heating season. The solenoid valve was stuck in the open position, allowing water to continuously run through the humidifier even when it shouldn't have been operating. A technician replaced the solenoid valve for $180 (parts and labor). The Harrises now add a humidifier check to their fall furnace maintenance routine.
Example 4: The Reeds — Vent Pipe Slope Issue in Denver, CO The Reeds had a chronic small puddle near their furnace that reappeared every few days during the winter. After two misdiagnosed service calls (blamed on the condensate drain both times), a third technician noticed the PVC exhaust vent sloped away from the furnace at about 1/8 inch per foot. Condensate was pooling in the pipe and dripping back at a joint. Re-supporting the vent pipe with proper slope cost $250 and permanently fixed the issue.
Key Takeaways
- Clogged condensate drain is the #1 cause of furnace water leaks — and it's the easiest DIY fix. Flush with vinegar or use a wet/dry vacuum.
- Only condensing furnaces (90%+ AFUE) should produce water during normal operation. If your 80% AFUE furnace is leaking, the cause is likely a humidifier, AC coil, or plumbing issue — not the furnace itself.
- Condensate pumps fail every 3–8 years. If you have one, keep a spare on hand ($30–$80) for quick replacement.
- Humidifier leaks are especially common at the start of heating season when the unit hasn't been serviced since spring.
- Prevention is easy: Pour 1/2 cup white vinegar down the condensate drain every 3 months, and include drain inspection in your annual furnace tune-up.
- Water damage from furnace leaks can cause mold growth within 24–48 hours. If you discover a leak, clean up standing water immediately and run a dehumidifier in the area.
- When in doubt, call a pro. Most furnace leak repairs cost $100–$400 and are completed in one visit.
Frequently Asked Questions
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